24k-30k-60k Service -dizzy

 

Here are links to the other parts of the servicing:

1. 60k service schedule
2. Spark Plugs
3. oil and all filters
4. dizzy rotor & cap & belt
5. gearbox oil
6. ISV valve clean
7. PAS belt check


 

4. DIZZY ROTORS, CAPS & BELT

Checking the Ditributor caps and rotors is a quick job and if you have the airbox off for spark plugs then it's worth checking at the same time. I think the official line is that the caps and rotors shoudl be changed every other time you change the plugs.

With the airbox removed and the heater tube that comes up from the lower left hand corner swivelled out the way or removed altogether, locate the primary and secondary (lower in the engine bay and leftmost) distributors.

Undo the 2 screws that hold the caps down on the primary dizzy. Use a decent screwdriver that fits well and takes a firm grip and give them a small nip up first.

Undo the central feed that comes from the coil.

For the secondary dizzy the screw at the back is hard to see. You'll want a good grip on it and you do NOT want to strip it so it's an idea to use an inspection mirror to help you see what you are doing and to seat the screwdriver properly.

When the screws are undone you can lift off the caps and rotate them backwards toward the middle of the car. If you cable tie the primary to the intake manifold then the secondary one can be jammed just behind it leaving you free to inspect everything.

I looked through my service history and discovered that mine were only replaced 14k miles ago. I decided to give them a good clean with some electrical contact fluid and a small rub with some 400 grit sandpaper. I intend to revisit them next year with a view to replacing them then.

If they need replacing then 2 caps and rotors will come in at around £100. Simply transfer each plug lead one by one to the new cap. The rotors are simply pulled off and replaced.

For the distributor belt I also decided to leave this till next year. My car is relatively low mileage and to be fair failures are fairy uncommon. I do think that it's a good idea to get it done at some stage though and then at least you'll know where you stand.

A quick test to check that it works is to remove the central plug lead feed from the primary cap (as in pic 3) then start the car up. If the car starts and idles ok then you know the belt is in place and working.

To remove the whole distrubutor is very easy in theory but can prove a little tricky and you might need some pry bars to help you persaude the thing to come out. A good indy will charge you around 1.5 hours labour to replace the belt. Just make sure that your engine is at TDC1 before you remove and then re-intsall the distributer. I would search for a good online guide before attempting this; it's not a job you want to make any errors on.

 

 

 

 


The Jackals Racetrack http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus 1998 Richard Morris